Loan Consolidation Calculator — MakeMyCred
LOAN CONSOLIDATION CALCULATOR

Combine your debts into one payment

Multiple credit cards, personal loans, and EMIs — consolidated into a single loan. See exactly how much you save every month, how much interest you avoid, and whether consolidation is really worth it after fees.

Add unlimited debts
Monthly & total savings
Full amortization schedule

Debt consolidation details

Consolidation loans typically range from 10%–16% depending on credit profile.
≈ 60 monthly instalments.
Documentation, legal, insurance, if any.
Consolidation saves money
Monthly savings
₹0
vs. paying your current minimums
Current monthly
₹0
New EMI
₹0
Total interest saved ₹0 vs. staying on current debts
Consolidation costs ₹0 processing + other
Net savings ₹0 interest saved − costs
Debt-free in vs. — on current path
Consolidation analysis will appear here.
YOUR DEBTS

What you're paying today

Each debt paid at its minimum has its own payoff time and total interest. Consolidated, they become one loan.

Debt Balance Rate Min. payment Months to clear Total interest
THE ANALYSIS

Your debt-free path — consolidated vs. not

The blue line shows your total balance falling to zero under a consolidation loan. The orange line is your current path if you keep paying only the minimums.

Total outstanding balance over time

Compare how fast each path reaches zero

Current minimums Consolidated loan
SIDE BY SIDE

Current debts vs. consolidation

Not just monthly payment — the full lifetime cost of each approach.

Current path

Paying your existing minimums

Total balance
Weighted avg. rate
Monthly outflow
Total interest
Total to repay
Debt-free in
Consolidated

One loan, one payment

Loan amount
New rate
Monthly EMI
Total interest
Total to repay
Debt-free in
THE DETAIL

Consolidation loan schedule

Every payment under the new consolidated loan, split between principal and interest.

Period Principal paid Interest paid Total payment Balance remaining

Figures are rounded to the nearest unit and assume no prepayments or missed instalments. The loan amount shown includes any processing fee that has been added to the consolidated principal.

WHAT MATTERS

Three things that decide whether consolidation works

It's not always a win. Here's what determines the outcome.

Rate comparison

Consolidation only makes sense when the new rate is meaningfully lower than your weighted-average existing rate. If your credit cards are at 36% and you consolidate at 12%, the savings are enormous.

Tenure balance

A longer tenure lowers your monthly payment but can increase total interest. The best consolidation keeps total interest lower than your current path — not just the monthly amount.

Discipline after

The biggest risk: you consolidate, then run up the same credit cards again. You end up with both the new loan and the new card debt. Consolidation only works if you close or stop using the old accounts.

DEEP DIVE

The complete guide to debt consolidation

When combining debts helps, when it hurts, and how to do it right.

1. What is debt consolidation?

Debt consolidation means taking a single new loan to pay off multiple existing debts — credit cards, personal loans, medical bills, store cards — so you have one lender, one monthly payment, and one interest rate. The idea is simple: replace many small, high-rate debts with one larger, lower-rate debt.

In India, this is common with credit card balances (which carry 36–42% annual interest), multiple personal loans, or a mix of both. A consolidated personal loan at 11–16% can dramatically reduce both your monthly outflow and total interest.

2. Why consolidation often saves money

The math is straightforward. Consider someone with three debts:

Debt Balance Rate Min. payment
Credit Card A₹2,00,00038%₹10,000
Credit Card B₹1,50,00036%₹7,500
Personal Loan₹3,00,00016%₹7,000
Total₹6,50,000~29%₹24,500

Paid at minimums, the two credit cards could take 15–20 years to clear — and the interest paid would be several times the original balance. A consolidated loan at 12% for 5 years would clear the whole thing for a much lower total interest.

💡 Rule of thumb: consolidation saves the most when your highest-rate debt (usually credit cards) is a significant share of your total.

3. The monthly payment illusion

Many "consolidation" offers look attractive because the new monthly payment is lower. But a lower monthly payment doesn't always mean a better deal — it can just mean a longer tenure, which increases total interest.

Example: consolidating ₹6.5L at 12% for 5 years gives an EMI of ₹14,461 and total interest of ₹2.18L. The same loan stretched to 8 years gives an EMI of ₹10,554 — very attractive — but total interest jumps to ₹3.63L.

⚠️ Always compare the total interest — not just the monthly amount. A lower EMI with a much higher total cost is not a win.

4. The weighted-average rate matters

To decide if consolidation is worth it, you need to know your current weighted-average rate — the blended rate across all your debts, weighted by balance.

Weighted Avg Rate = Σ (Balance × Rate) ÷ Σ Balance

If your weighted-average rate is 29% and the consolidation offer is 12%, you're saving 17 percentage points on average — huge. If your weighted average is 14% and the offer is 13%, the savings are small and may not justify the fees.

5. The minimum-payment trap

Credit card minimum payments are usually 5% of the balance, or ₹500 — whichever is higher. On a ₹2L balance at 38%, the monthly interest alone is about ₹6,300. A minimum payment of ₹10,000 barely dents the principal.

What's worse: if the minimum payment is less than the monthly interest charge, the debt grows even if you're paying. This is called negative amortisation — and it's a common trap on high-rate cards.

Debt consolidation escapes this trap by converting revolving high-rate debt into a fixed amortising loan where every payment reduces principal.

6. What does consolidation cost?

Consolidation isn't free. Typical costs:

  • Processing fee: 1–3% of the loan amount
  • Documentation and legal charges: ₹5,000–₹15,000
  • Insurance (optional, sometimes bundled): 1–2% of the loan
  • Foreclosure charges on the old loans: 2–4% on personal loans, often zero on floating-rate home loans
  • Stamp duty: varies by state

These costs erode the savings. Always net them out before deciding. This calculator does that for you.

7. When consolidation works

  • Your weighted-average rate is at least 3–4% higher than the consolidation offer
  • You have a clear plan to not run up the cards again
  • Your credit score is good enough to get a competitive rate (750+)
  • You can afford the new EMI at a tenure that clears the debt faster than your current path
  • The consolidation costs can be recovered in a reasonable time

8. When consolidation doesn't work

  • Your weighted-average rate is already low (under 12%) — the savings won't cover the fees
  • You have a history of running up cleared cards — you'll likely do it again
  • The new tenure is so long that the total interest exceeds your current path
  • The processing fee and foreclosure charges are high relative to the balance
  • Your credit score isn't strong enough to qualify for a meaningfully lower rate

⚠️ Consolidation is a tool, not a fix. If the underlying spending behaviour doesn't change, the debt will simply return — often worse, because you now have both the new loan and fresh card balances.

9. Alternatives to consolidation

Before you consolidate, consider whether a different approach works better:

  • Balance transfer to a 0% card: If available, this can be cheaper than a consolidation loan — but you have to clear the balance within the 0% period.
  • Debt snowball or avalanche: Pay minimums on everything except one debt, then attack it aggressively. Slow but proven.
  • Negotiate with creditors: Some lenders will reduce rates or accept a settlement if you're struggling.
  • Loan against property or securities: Much lower rates (7–10%) if you have collateral — often the cheapest consolidation option.
  • Home loan top-up: If you have a home loan, a top-up at 9–11% can consolidate at a lower rate than a personal loan.

10. How to consolidate properly

  1. List every debt — balance, rate, minimum payment. Include everything.
  2. Calculate your weighted-average rate — that's your benchmark.
  3. Shop for offers from at least 3 lenders, comparing effective APRs, not headline rates.
  4. Do the math with this calculator. Focus on net savings and total interest — not monthly EMI.
  5. Choose the shortest tenure you can afford — longer tenure means more total interest.
  6. Close the old accounts after paying them off — or at least stop using them.
  7. Pay the new EMI on time, every time — many consolidation loans have punitive late fees.

11. The behavioural side

Studies consistently show that debt consolidation succeeds or fails based on behaviour, not math. The people who succeed treat the consolidation loan as a clean slate and change their spending habits. The people who fail treat it as extra room on their credit cards — and end up worse off within 2–3 years.

If you're considering consolidation, ask yourself honestly: "If I woke up tomorrow with zero credit card debt, would I start using the cards again?" If the answer is yes, consolidation won't fix your problem. If the answer is no, it can be transformative.

✓ The best consolidation plan includes a commitment: cut up the cards, close the accounts, and never carry a revolving balance again.

12. Final thoughts

Debt consolidation is one of the most powerful financial moves available — when done right. It converts high-rate, revolving debt into a fixed-rate amortising loan, gives you a clear payoff date, and can save lakhs in interest. It's also a tool that many people misuse, ending up worse off because they don't change the behaviour that created the debt.

Use this calculator to see the honest numbers. Look at net savings, total interest, and the length of time to becoming debt-free. If the analysis shows consolidation saves you real money and time — and you're committed to changing the habits that created the debt — then it's very likely the right move.

QUESTIONS

Frequently asked questions

Over 35 common questions about debt consolidation, answered.

Taking a single new loan to pay off multiple existing debts, so you have one lender, one payment, and one interest rate — typically at a lower rate than what you were paying before.

Initially, it may cause a small dip due to a hard inquiry and opening a new account. Long-term, it typically helps — especially if you use it to pay down high-interest debt and avoid revolving balances. The effect depends heavily on whether you keep using the old credit cards.

Prioritise high-interest debts — credit cards (36–42%), store cards, and high-rate personal loans. Leave low-rate debts (like a home loan at 8%) out of the consolidation, because paying them off with a higher-rate loan actually costs you more.

Typically 10.5%–18% depending on credit score, income, employer category, and loan amount. Borrowers with 750+ scores get the best rates. NBFCs and fintech lenders may quote higher rates but offer faster processing.

Choose the shortest tenure whose EMI you can comfortably afford. Consolidation loans typically run 1–7 years. Extending the tenure lowers the EMI but increases total interest — often erasing the benefit of a lower rate.

It's the blended rate across all your debts, weighted by balance. A ₹3L card at 38% + a ₹2L card at 36% gives a weighted average of ~37%. That's the benchmark the consolidation rate should beat.

Usually yes — that's one of the main attractions. But a lower monthly payment isn't automatically a win. If the lower payment comes with a longer tenure, you may end up paying more total interest.

Processing fee (1–3%), documentation charges (₹5,000–₹15,000), optional insurance (1–2%), and any foreclosure penalty on the debts you're paying off (2–4% on personal loans, zero on floating home loans).

No. If your weighted-average rate is already low (under 12%), the savings won't cover the fees. If you don't change your spending habits, you'll end up with both the new loan and fresh card debt — worse off than before.

You don't have to close them, but you should stop using them. Closing a card reduces your available credit and can hurt your score. Keeping it open but unused is usually the better approach — it maintains your credit history and utilisation ratio.

You can, but usually shouldn't. Home loans have the lowest rates of any loan — consolidating them into a higher-rate loan is backwards. Instead, consider a home loan top-up to pay off other higher-rate debts at the home loan rate.

Yes, but be careful about losing benefits tied to the original loans — like interest subsidy schemes or Section 80E eligibility. If the consolidation is a personal loan, you'll lose Section 80E benefits. Consider a balance transfer to another education loan instead.

Yes — medical debt on high-rate cards is often the best candidate for consolidation because medical bills don't generate returns, and every rupee of interest paid is pure cost. Consolidate it at a lower rate and pay it off aggressively.

Most lenders require a minimum of ₹50,000 to ₹1,00,000. If your total debt is smaller, consolidation may not be available — and might not be worth it anyway, since processing fees won't scale down proportionately.

If you pay off cards but keep them open, your credit utilisation drops sharply — which is positive for your score. But installing a new loan increases your total debt, so the net effect depends on both.

If you can get a 0% balance transfer card and clear the balance within the promotional period, it can be cheaper. But those windows are often 6–12 months — and if you can't clear it, you'll be back at 40%+ rates. A fixed-rate consolidation loan has more certainty.

Pay minimums on all debts except the smallest one. Attack the smallest with every spare rupee until it's gone. Then move to the next smallest. Psychologically motivating, but mathematically slower than the avalanche method.

Same as snowball, but attack the debt with the highest interest rate first. Mathematically optimal — you pay the least total interest. Slightly less motivating because the highest-rate debt is often the largest.

Consolidation pays your debts in full with a new loan. Debt settlement negotiates with creditors to accept less — but it destroys your credit score, has tax implications, and can take years. Consolidation is almost always preferable if you can qualify.

Usually no — consolidation is typically an unsecured personal loan. But if you have collateral (property, securities, FD), a secured consolidation loan gives you a much lower rate (7–11%). Worth exploring if you can qualify.

KYC, income proof, bank statements, and details of the debts you want to consolidate (statements from each lender). The lender may also want to see 6–12 months of on-time payments on the existing debts.

Typically 3–10 days from application to disbursement for unsecured loans. The new lender then pays off the old creditors, which takes another 3–7 days. So plan for 1–3 weeks total.

Yes — this is a very common use case. If you have 3 personal loans at 16–18% each, a single consolidation loan at 12–14% saves meaningful interest and simplifies your monthly cash flow.

Usually not. Car loan rates (8–12%) are already low, and consolidating into a personal loan (12–18%) raises your cost. The exception is if you're consolidating a very high-rate used-car loan from an NBFC.

Yes, but it's harder. Lenders may require 2–3 years of ITRs, and rates are typically 1–3% higher than for salaried borrowers. Some NBFCs specialise in self-employed consolidation loans.

Yes, but most personal loans charge 2–4% prepayment penalty. Prepayment still usually saves money, but factor in the penalty. Confirm your loan agreement before prepaying.

Focus on the debt snowball or avalanche method. Attack one debt at a time with every spare rupee. Slow but effective. Or negotiate directly with creditors for lower rates or settlements.

Yes — credit cards, personal loans, medical debt, store cards, any debt with a balance, rate, and minimum payment. Add as many as you need using the "Add another debt" button.

When your minimum payment is less than the monthly interest charge, the debt never pays off — it grows forever. This is called negative amortisation. Consolidated into a proper amortising loan, it's solved.

No. Home loan rates (8–10%) are the lowest you'll ever get. Consolidating them into a personal loan (12–18%) makes you worse off. Keep home loans out of consolidation and consider a top-up instead.

Only if you're the primary borrower. Co-signed loans belong to the primary borrower, and you can't consolidate debt that isn't legally yours without their involvement.

The shortest tenure whose EMI you can comfortably afford while still paying down principal each month. For most consolidations, 3–5 years is ideal — long enough to keep EMIs manageable, short enough to save meaningful interest.

Very close, but lenders use their own rounding, day-count conventions, and may add fees not included here. Use this as a planning tool, then confirm final numbers with the lender's sanction letter.

No. Everything runs in your browser. Nothing is uploaded, tracked, or stored.

This calculator provides estimates for general guidance only, using standard reducing-balance formulas for both the existing debts and the consolidated loan. Actual rates, minimum payments, and costs depend on your lenders' specific policies. Consolidation requires behavioural change to work long-term. This is not financial advice.

Consolidating — then want to pay it off faster?

Use the Prepayment Calculator to see how extra payments clear your consolidation loan sooner.

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